Style Help

Stripped-Down Summer Makeup

It’s July and although it’s cooled slightly, here in New York, the temperature and humidity are supposed to climb over the next few days. When both are high, it’s time to think of stripping down your makeup to beat the heat and suit your lighter clothing.  Here are a few tips I follow that may work for you too:

Don’t use the same sunblock on your face as your body. Select one that’s formulated solely for your face because it feels lighter and isn’t  greasy. I use Neutrogena Age Shield Face, with an SPF 70, and like the finish.

Forgo foundation. Even the sheerest foundation makes me sweat, resulting in runny makeup and an unsightly sheen, so now I use a combo of concealer and loose powder. I stipple concealer over imperfections and under my eyes with a small brush, blending with my finger. I finish with a light coat of translucent power over my entire face to set the concealer and whisk away shine.

Switch to a sheer, very bright powder blush. I’m talking bright here, not the shade you wear in winter. But it has to be sheer so that it doesn’t deposit heavy color. If not, you’ll look like Bette Davis in Hush, Hush Sweet Charlotte. Brush your blush over the apples of your cheeks only. Don’t know where the apple is? Smile. See that raised mound each of your cheeks forms? That’s your apple and it is close to your nose.

Frost your lids. Gild your upper lids with a thin layer of soft iridescence in a neutral like gold, silver or bronze.

Brush on colored mascara. Purple, bright blue, turquoise and grape are several of the colors I’ve been having fun with.

Keep your lips light and bright. My favorite shade is a really sheer orange. Yes, orange, which I top with clear gloss. Bright pink or coral are also summery and yummy.

 

The finished look will be light, fresh and colorful, but not overwhelming because the product formulations are so weightless.

Dressing for the Dog Days

How do you dress appropriately for work when the weather is against it! Here are a few suggestions:

  • Switch to lighter weight fabrics. Tissue linen, voile, batiste, featherweight denim and cottons are all substitutions for heavier fabrics this time of the year. Just remember to wear the proper undergarments so that your look is not too transparent.
  • Keep jewelry to a minimum. Heavy necklaces and bracelets can make you feel hotter. Avoid them completely and concentrate on earrings or opt for weightless chains or pendants on silk or leather cording.
  • Forgo hosiery. It’s no longer a given in business that hosiery is a must because of a younger workforce, which has grown up with bare legs. If your dress code and legs allow it, go bare. If not, switch to lightweight, barely-there hosiery, like Donna Karan’s The Nakeds.
  • Wear peep toe shoes or sandals. Again, check your company’s dress code policy. If you can wear sandals, select a pair that’s more sandal than flip-flop and make sure your feet are groomed.
  • Keep layering to a minimum. The more layers you have on, the warmer you’ll feel. Yet, you don’t want your look to be too revealing. Bare arms, low cut tops and very short bottoms don’t belong in an office, so be sure not to disregard propriety for comfort.

White On

Now that Memorial Day has come and gone, you can officially wear white pants (and shoes). Frankly, I find this rule outdated, but none-the-less, that’s the way it goes.

That said, white pants are wonderful in warm weather. They look so fresh and cool that I live in them during the summer. However, I know that they strike fear and trepidation in the heart of many of you. And yes, if they are not worn in the right way, they can make you look heavier… and/or indecent, when too thin and/or worn with the wrong undergarments.

You can wear white pants with confidence by following these easy tips:

•    Make sure your pants fit perfectly. Have them tailored, if they don’t.
•    Wear nude underwear and avoid visible panty lines with a thong or Spanx (if you need the holding power).
•    Avoid sleeveless, V-neck or halter tops if your body shape is triangular. They’ll only make your top half appear narrower. Instead, select tops with sleeves and a crew, bateau or scoop neck, which visually balance your body.
•    Layer your tops—throw a sheer tunic over a tank top or tee shirt—if you want more coverage.
•    Accessorize white with gold or silver shoes and jewelry.
•    Look taller and leaner by keeping your entire outfit pale—mixing different tones of ivory and white.
•    Try a dark or bright top only if your hips are narrower than your shoulders.

Pearl Jam

Because “What jewelry should I own?” is one of the questions I’m constantly asked, I decided to talk about my favorite jewels, which I think are always right for every taste, job, industry or occasion: pearls. Here’s why:* Pearls never go out of style* They’re available at every price point* They don’t have to be real* Depending on how you wear or pair them, they can be sporty or dressy* They flatter every skin tone* They come in all sizes and lengths* They’re extremely versatileI received my first pair of cultured pearls when I graduated college and each pearl was 8 mm, or medium-sized. I viewed them as special so I rarely wore them, and that was a shame because pearls become more lustrous with wear.Many years later I began treating them less reverently. In the 80s, I would pile faux pearls on and wear my real pearls with them. I often still do that 20 years later, varying the lengths and sizes, even mixing them with gold chains or lengths of chain and other stones. To get you going, here are a few of my ideas:* Because a single short strand of pearls looks very ingenue-ish, it can age anyone over 35, unless the pearls themselves are big (14+ mm), gorgeous and real.* The smaller the pearl, the more strands you need for impact.* For a tailored yet sophisticated look, fill in the neckline of a shirt with several graduated strands of pearls.* Your silhouette will appear longer and leaner with lots of very long strands of pearls, which can be mixed with chains.* Add drama and interest to pearls by clipping a pendant or a brooch on to one of the strands.* Use a safety pin to shorten a strand of pearls. Determine the length you want your pearls to be and place the pin horizontally across the space between the pearls on both sides.* Select white, gray or blush pearls if you have a cool complexion and creamy, golden or peachy pearls if your complexion is warm.* And remember, you can wear any earring–gold, silver, stone or pearl–with pearls. They don’t have to match.

Stemwear

Legs are hot this season, so if you want to update your look, start at the bottom. Begin with a pair of flats or pumps in brown or black patent leather and knee-high boots if you wear skirts or dresses, or low boots or booties if you prefer trousers. Then instead of those sheer or opaque tights you usually wear, try some that are textured. The weight and finish can vary according to your mood and outfit.

I guarantee they’ll transform a simple sweater dress or sweater and skirt into a cool and modern outfit. Here are some pointers:

* Match your hosiery to your shoes for a long unbroken line.

* Pair fishnet knee-highs with pumps to wear under jeans or trousers.

* Avoid heavy-weight textured hosiery if you have heavy ankles or calves. Opt for hosiery in a lighter weight with a pattern of vertical stripes to visually slim your legs.

* Save lace-patterned tights for evening and try them with boots or shoes.

* The more creative the industry you work in, the more outrageous your hosiery can be. The more conservative your industry, the more traditional your hosiery.

* Patterned or even opaque tights in a bright color can wake up a neutral look. My favorites: Deep purple tights with a black, brown or gray outfit.

For you guys reading this, here are some ideas for you:

* Match your socks to your trousers if you work in a very conservative industry.

* Make sure your socks are high enough so no skin is exposed when you’re sitting or crossing your legs.

* While you can wear both lace-up and slip-in shoes for business casual, only lace-up shoes should be worn with a suit.

* Try a pair of patterned or colored socks as a signature.

My Secret Exercise Weapon

Although I like the results of exercise, I hate to do it. For the last six months though, I’ve been addicted to spinning. However, while finding a great class is essential for staying with a plan, it’s not my secret.

My exercise outfit is. When I like what I wear and in it, look like the athlete I’d like to be, I’m more apt to work out. And there’s a lot of good stuff out there at all price levels.

So guys throw out those old gym shorts and ragged top and ladies, that pair of old tights and baggy T-shirt. Get yourself some cool gear and it will make all the difference. Some ideas:

Go techno: Look for clothes made of high-tech fabrics that wick (keep the moisture off your skin). Nike has a fabric called Dri-FIT: blends of cotton and polyester and polyester and spandex that keep you cool and dry. Avoid pure cotton, which absorbs sweat, becoming a sodden mess when wet.

Get sleek: Select a look that skims your shape, rather than hiding it. The outfit doesn’t have to encase you like a sausage, but it shouldn’t be baggy and shapeless. For women, bootcut tights are chic and flattering, topped with a fitted tank. For men, think Lance Armstrong: sleek bicycle shorts with a tank top.

Spotlight your assets: Consider cut and proportion when selecting workout wear. If you have great calves, bicycle shorts are the answer; great arms, go sleeveless. (If you don’t like your arms and can’t find a top with sleeves, buy a long-sleeved exercise T and shorten the sleeves to just below the elbows). Always wear supportive undergarments…they will also visually perfect your body.

Color up: All black is sexy and slimming, however a burst of color can really brighten your mood. Think about black bottoms with a colorful top.

Pack it in: Get a good-looking gym bag to carry all your stuff and always stock it with a clean outfit and socks.

Whoops. Gotta go to spinning class. I have on black, cropped bootleg tights with a semi-fitted dusty pink tank, which extends over my hips to elongate my torso. Best, I got it on sale.

French Dressing

Paris, the city of my dreams, was also the inspiration for one of my books, French Chic: How To Dress Like A Frenchwoman. I did so much research that I internalized the Gallic fashion approach. It’s become the foundation for my style methodology and the way I work with people.  Since you’re probably starting to think about your spring wardrobe, I though a few of my fashion “rules” might be applicable. So here goes

1. Do more with less. Did you know that with the right 17 garments, you could create over 40 outfits, without repeating any? Notice, I said the right garments: those that suit your lifestyle, flatter your body and make you feel great. I’ve gotten into the habit of buying a fabulous suit every season that I wear together and as  separates. This year, it’s a brown Michael Kors skirt suit with a short fitted jacket and removable “leopard” collar. I wear the jacket either with or without the collar, paired with tweed pants, brown suede pants, brown flannel pants, camel pants, a multi-hued skirt and others and team the skirt with an assortment of different pullovers, cardigans and  jackets. I can create a minimum of 15 outfits from that suit. And I feel terrific in every one of them.

2. Base your wardrobe on neutral shades. Select no more than two as your core colors. Neutrals work well together and they send a more executive message. Remember, the deeper the hue, the more authority it conveys. Use pastels or brights as accent shades.

3. Check the fit. The better clothing fits, the more expensive it looks. If you have a choice between costly clothing that’s too big or too small or more affordable clothing that fits perfectly, opt for the latter. Ill-fitting garments undermine your confidence and your power. They don’t look the money and worse, they don’t look good.

 4. Personalize your look with accessories. You can stay true to your style and still portray a professional image (especially if you work for a conservative company) by using accessories wisely.Choose a signature, be it ropes of pearls, interesting shoes, antique pins or even a colorful flower on your lapel to make yourself memorable.

5.  Dress for the day. If you’re in IT and intend to be crawling around rewiring computers, don’t wear your best suit. And if you’re going to a meeting with clients, don’t wear jeans and a tee shirt. Match your outfit to the occasion and remember, in business, it’s better to err on the side of formality.

There, they aren’t too hard to try, are they? Practice just one and viva la difference!

Wait… Don’t Put Me On Hold Again!

Make sure your callers are getting the customer service that they need.

Have you ever called a business associate only to have the receptionist put you on hold — indefinitely? Or been connected directly to your party’s voicemail without being asked whether you’d like to speak with someone else? Have you done time in automation hell when you don’t know your party’s extension or the correct spelling of his or her name?

If you’re frustrated, you’d do well to consider that the same thing could be happening at your own company. That’s not only a shame, but also a missed opportunity that can directly affect your bottom line.

Reaching your party via phone has certainly gotten complicated in this age of advanced technology. One thing to do to prevent missed connections, whether or not you have a receptionist, is to invest in an automated telephone system that allows the caller to access another extension — and a real live operator — if the original party is unavailable. Then to prevent human error, here’s what to tell your receptionist to do — or not do.

- DO smile when answering the phone, because it makes you sound welcoming and friendly, even if you’re harassed.

- DON’T have a long, extended greeting. Keep it simple: “Good morning, RK and partners. May I help you?”

- DO ask the caller if he or she wants to leave a message or speak with someone else when the person requested is out of the office or unavailable. Don’t transfer to voicemail without asking.

- DON’T eat, chew gum or drink coffee or any other liquid while on duty.

- DO get back to someone on hold very quickly. Seconds seem like hours when a caller is waiting to get through.

- DON’T make or accept personal calls while at the front desk. It’s highly unprofessional, especially if there are visitors in the waiting room.

While your receptionist is the first line of communication for your company, it’s equally important that your staff’s telephone behavior be polite and professional, too. Here’s what to tell them:

- DO answer the phone with a greeting and your name. If you’ll be out of the office, leave a brief message with a greeting, your name and the company name.

- DON’T let voicemail messages pile up so that your mailbox becomes full. If you’re going to be away for an extended time and unable to pick up messages, direct the calls to another person in your absence.

- DO return all calls within 24 hours.

- DON’T answer a call when you’re in a meeting with either a client or a colleague, unless it pertains to what’s being discussed in the meeting.

- DON’T put callers on speakerphone unless you tell them you’re doing so.

This article appeared in the January 2007 issue of The Enterprise Report.

Boss Style - Your Wardrobe Can Make or Break a Deal

The right style can reinforce your business presence. What should it be?

On September 12, 2001, Johna Till Johnson went to the office wearing her best business suit. “I did it to show respect to both the city and my co-workers,” says Till Johnson, president and senior founding partner of Nemertes Research, a technology company. Even though the dress code for her telecommuting staff is casual, Till Johnson encourages colleagues to wear a suit when meeting clients because it provides instant credibility:

“We sell advice, and in order for our advice to be trusted, clients have to trust the person giving it.”

Wardrobe is a communications tool: A survey of small business owners in varying fields revealed that they prefer more dressed up attire, particularly when prospecting. For males, this translates to a suit with shirt and tie, and for women, a matched or unmatched jacket with skirt or dress pants (no jeans). Sales and front-office staff are encouraged to dress similarly, and while comfort is still king in the back office, the look is neater. “We believe that dressing a little nicer — no jeans, sweats, sneakers or flip-flops — makes people feel good about themselves, no matter what their job,” says Alan Klein, president and CEO of Ace Payroll, headquartered in Bethpage, N.Y.

As a small business owner, you must be aware not only of the big picture, but also of the details, like grooming and hygiene, which can make or break a deal. Here’s help:

Do lead by example

Your employees look to you to set the standard. Anthony Celano, CEO of Full Security Inc., an investigative services firm, shows his staff exactly what he means with his tailored attire in tones of blue and gray. He says money talks: “Too-casual attire, and clients think they’re doing you a favor. Dress professionally and the situation is reversed.”

Don’t rely on unwritten rules

An up to date dress code, tailored to your industry, can steer those just starting out in the right direction. Kaplow Communications, a Manhattan public relations and marketing firm, is in the business of style, and their dress code reflects it. President Liz Kaplow favors fashionable separates, rather than a traditional business suit. Among the items employees are encouraged to leave at home are “exposing” tank tops, shirts with pop culture phrases that are inappropriate (i.e., “Camp Aniston/Camp Jolie”), cargo-style pants or skirts and five-pocket jeans (except on Fridays). The same criteria might be applicable to an entertainment or advertising firm, where looking hip is the ticket.

Do give your employees just the right amount of information they need to feel empowered

A seasoned staff might chafe at too much direction. When Michael
Fleischer became president of Bogen Communications, which designs and manufactures sound systems, he replaced the eight-page dress code with a brief paragraph explaining that as professionals, the workforce was expected to dress appropriately for their jobs. He points out that because there is a practicality issue, everyone doesn’t dress in the same manner.

Don’t overlook grooming

Dirty fingernails or stained teeth with an expensive suit? Nope, they don’t compute and can be a liability.

Do take your dress clues from your clients

Suit, shirt and tie are the order of the day at an initial meeting for Raj Goel, CTO of Brainlink International, an IT consulting company, and his team. Once the project gets under way, though, the team dresses according to the client’s office attire. “However, you never want to dress more casually than they do,“ adds Victor Urbach, founder and president of The Optran Group, which specializes in exit planning. “Move one click up on the dial. If they’re wearing jeans, wear chinos; if they’re wearing sports coats, you wear a suit.”

This article appeared in the October 2006 issue of The Enterprise Report. 

Closet Smarts

Is this the year you’re going to do things differently? Good for you. However, experience has taught me that instead of trying to institute lots of changes, I’m better off making just one because I then have a better chance of succeeding.

After all, it takes 21 days to start a new pattern and 100 days for this new pattern to become automatic. By concentrating on one thing at a time, I’ve been able to create some lasting modifications. Of course, I do have to keep at it. Working out is one of those things that I can be very good about…until the day I’m very bad. Luckily, I resume again after a short hiatus.

That said, this article is not about working out, but rather, working your wardrobe. The best place to start is in the organization and storage of your clothes. Only by being able to see exactly what you own can you figure out new ways to wear and pair your clothes.

Make this year the one that you make the most of what you already own. Here are the steps to take:

  1. Separate each of your suits. Hang tops and bottoms separately.
  2. Store all garments by category, then color, organizing them from dark to light in each category.
  3. Use wood or plastic hangers for jackets and shirts. Avoid wire, because it doesn’t properly maintain the shape of the shoulders.
  4. Hang trousers long, using skirt hangers with clips. I clip them at the waist. Men can hang their trousers folded over the slat in a wooden hanger.
  5. Clip skirts on skirt hangers.
  6. Dresses too will be hung in a group that ranges from dark to light using wooden or plastic hangers.
  7. Never hang knits. Fold them. I keep my sweaters in an armoire. My black sweaters are separated into three piles: turtlenecks, pullovers and cardigans. The rest of my sweaters are separated in piles by color, ranging from—you got it—dark to light.
  8. Fold T-shirts and store in piles by color in a chest of drawers or on a shelf.
  9. If you have the room, mount a shoe rack inside a closet door. When I open my closet, I see 24 pair at a glance.
  10. Organize socks and hosiery by color. I keep mine in lingerie boxes in a deep drawer.
  11. I like to see my jewelry at a glance so I keep it in clear plastic boxes with compartments, that were probably originally created for nails and screws.
  12. Hang belts and bags on special hangers or as I do, on hooks suspended from pegboard on the inside of one of my closet doors.
  13. Fold scarves lengthwise over a hanger so they can be readily seen.

Once everything is out in the open and pieces are assembled according to category, then you can begin pairing items you might not have thought off.